Maticevski is definitely one of my favourite Australian labels. I have loved watching Toni's designs evolve into a fully realised aesthetic over the past few years, last year culminating in my top show for MBFWA. Considering he opened the season this year and is currently the only show I have seen, it's too early to call the "top show" award! But, I definitely enjoyed it. In true Toni style, the location was grandiose, the runway sleek, the atmosphere moody but electric.
When it came to the clothing, I was pleased as usual. The silver textured dirndl skirt in particular caught my eye* as well as the signature bondage/straight jacket straps and layering. The bondage theme also extended to the controversial accessories, with dramatic metal choker neck sculptures, mouth pieces reminiscent of the 2014 show flowers held between model's lips, and sparkling bejewelled handcuffs (one pair of which was attached to the model's neck from behind her back). Not 2 hours out of the show and I had overhead many mixed opinions about these accessories; but most were outraged at their repressive, anti-feminist nature. I do feel that Maticevski's designs often have a somewhat restrictive quality - the tight-fitting structure, the straps, upper arms often lashed in flat against the torso - and I see how the bondage element in the accessories may have been intended to emphasise this feature. But in a time when female uprising and male oppression are so heavily portrayed in daily media, it was definitely a risky move. Luckily for me, I know Toni, and what a sweetheart genius he is, and I am totally on his side. If I were ever to wear handcuffs for any particular reason, I'd want them to be his.
All images shot by Rachel Yabsley for StyleBk.co